The New Paris Podcast

Moving to a new city can be both exciting and daunting, especially when it comes to making new friends. Paris, with its rich culture and vibrant social scene, may seem like the perfect place to forge connections. However, many newcomers often find it challenging to break into established social circles. Jane Bertch, entrepreneur, author, and podcaster at GenerateHER, joins me to talk about how we've made friends over the years and the etiquette of building contacts and friends in Paris, where cultural norms differ.

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What happens when you trade fifteen years of working in law for a professional kitchen? In the case of today’s guest, you get one of the most flavorful and unique dining experiences in the city. Priscilla Tram, the chef and founder of Trâm 130, has changed the conversation about what 'personal' cooking looks like in Paris today. We’ll talk about her career, why Paris was finally ready for her unique culinary voice, and chat about her brand-new project, Trâmette, opening soon in the 11th arrondissement.

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How does technology play into the paradigm shift the world is experiencing?  I'm joined by digital anthropologist, author, and public speaker Rahaf Harfoush to talk about resilience and how global interconnection means we cannot speak about the future of France without considering the impact of decisions made much further afield, by other nations. We discuss geopolitical shifts and innovation in France amid global disruptions, and how cultural values must shape our response to crises and technological evolution. What does the future of France look like? Listen to find out.

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There is some relief to be shared right now for many Parisians— voters sent Rachida Dati walking and opted for Emmanuel Grégoire, formerly Anne Hidalgo’s first deputy, as the French capital's new mayor. The Socialist party has governed Paris for 25 years and the majority has spoken. But that isn’t the full picture. To give you a sense of what his win means, how many people really turned up to vote, where the finger pointing is being aimed now by major political parties, and what Grégoire plans to do for Paris, I asked political journalist and author Léa Chamboncel. Here's what to know.

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Almost two years ago, I met today’s guest on an art deco journalist jaunt around Greater Paris and have followed her work ever since. Maïa Morgensztern is a French art historian and culture journalist living in London but returns to Paris monthly, usually for an exhibition. Given how much has changed in the art world in the last year, I wanted to get her take on Paris vs London, the historical contexts of both cities in their approaches to culture, and the impact of Brexit on the art world. We talk about government and private funding in the arts, access to cultural institutions, and the class divides that influence who engages with art. You’ll also hear where she likes to go, every time she’s in town. 

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Nearly 12 years I ago, I became a French citizen. Since then, a lot has changed. Most notably, the criteria for nationality have tightened this year. Given how many more Americans, in particular, are looking to move to France, I thought it was time to dig into the process, how it’s gotten harder and why — at least for everyone except George Clooney— and to do so, I brought on a friend of the show, France 24 journalist, and new French citizen, Charli James.  

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Whether you have children or not, chances are you’ve heard that France’s childcare system is among the best in Europe, both in terms of public and private options. There’s the crèche, subsidized daycare, shared nannies, au pairs, and full-time Nannies who make, or should anyway, a living commensurate with their experience and hours worked. Since more and more foreigners are moving to Paris with children or with the intention of having children, it’s important to understand the landscape. I happen to know someone who works in this world and wanted to get her story, her views on child rearing in Paris specifically, the options that exist, the dark side of the business, and how it all compares with the UK and Germany, where she has both lived and worked. Meet Lise Scott.

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In continuing the conversation around the city’s culinary scene, the episode you’ll hear today comes directly from a panel discussion I was part of at The American Library in Paris with two very powerful voices in food that I’m proud to know. I was joined by Carina Soto Velasquez, the co-founder and owner of Quixotic Projects (Candelaria, Le Mary Celeste, and A La Renaissance), and Nora Bouazzouni, a French journalist and author who reports on ethical issues in the industry. We go through the changes in the food scene, some of the ongoing challenges for women, and how violence endures in the kitchen across the country. 

Thank you to the American Library for allowing me to use the audio and to Rachel Donadio for her thoughtful moderation. 

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What does it take to run a successful restaurant or several in a city full of them? Josh Fontaine, cofounder of Candelaria, Le Mary Celeste, and the newly opened A La Renaissance, knows something about it. He joins me to talk about what’s changed in the Paris food and beverage scene since COVID, the proliferation of concept-driven restaurants, creating longevity, and some of the details he’s most proud of at his new restaurant.

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Paris = luxury fashion, right? Louis Vuitton, Hermès, and Chanel are pillars of France’s soft power and legacy of craftsmanship. And they are among the most counterfeited brands in the world. That's part of what I learned reporting on secondhand luxury and authentication issues for Bloomberg Businessweek.

I got to go behind the curtain at Vestiaire Collective, the leading French secondhand platform, to understand the surge in superfakes, how brands are responding to them, and how platforms like Vestiaire have become frontline defenders in this battle for authenticity. Today, I'm joined by Vestiaire's co-founder Fanny Moizant to talk about values, authentication, access, and how our relationship to French savoir-faire is evolving. Most of all, we'll discuss why secondhand no longer carries a stigma.

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Today's guest, André Michel, is a Paris insider; the unofficial Mayor of Paris with a deep and varied knowledge of food and culture, and a talent for weaving it all into compelling storytelling and events. The occasional food and travel writer and event organizer joins me to talk about what it means to know Paris, why there’s never been a better or more dynamic time to visit or live in Paris, and what travelers should check out this summer.

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My new book is officially on shelves! To celebrate, The Red Wheelbarrow bookstore hosted me for a launch event last week. At the start, I was in conversation about the project (and more) with the legendary New York Times bestselling and James Beard Award–winning cookbook author Dorie Greenspan. This episode is an edited version of that discussion.

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In the canon of Paris narratives, few focus on oddball finds and secrets lurking right beneath our noses. But Vanessa Grall, more commonly known and Messy Nessy, has made it her calling card. For more than a decade she has sussed out offbeat tales and fascinating individuals who have shaped our world and published several guidebooks to help travelers get beyond the obvious. More than a year ago, she opened a storefront, Messy Nessy’s Cabinet, a shop full of curiosities she joins me to talk about today. 

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So far, the year in Paris has been bright — at least in a cultural sense. The Louvre Museum is leading the charge with its very first full-fledged fashion exhibition in its 232-year history. To talk about why it’s significant, what visitors can expect, and the cultural context surrounding the pieces on display is Amy Verner, a fashion journalist and longtime Paris resident who has likely spent more time pondering the works inside the Louvre than all of my listeners combined. 

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Like many people living in France, I took a break from alcohol during the imported milestone of Dry January. But we’re in February, and two wine fairs have brought wine lovers and wine pros to the city for talks, tastings, and buying. Wine consumption has been dropping steadily in France, and sales have declined since the 1970s.

So what’s happening here? How are people drinking? Are they drinking? What’s the status of natural wine today? Where should people go to drink well in Paris if they’re going to do so? I'm joined by Alicia Dorey, a wine journalist who writes regularly for Le Figaro, to talk about the ins and outs of wine consumption.

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A quick one from me to kickoff season 9 and share some fun news: I have a new book coming out this spring!

I'm recording new episodes for season 9 (coming soon!) but I wanted to bring back some of the most appreciated episodes of the show in the meantime. I originally recorded this episode with Comice co-owner and sommelière Etheliya Hananova in March 2022, and it ranks among the most listened-to since I first started recording in 2017.

She talks about the journey from Montreal to Paris, the type of dining environment she and her husband, Comice's chef, Noam set out to create, and what it means to be working in wine in Paris on her terms.

This month is my 18th December living in Paris, and as I reflect on that time, I’m struck by how much the city still enchants and surprises me. It might be a buzzy neighborhood, a refurbished historical marvel like Notre Dame, a dining experience, or something more unexpected. Someone in the business of sussing out and building such experiences, including some I have attended, is today’s guest Catherine Down. She’s a food writer and travel and event consultant who joins to talk about the most surprising spaces and experiences in Paris, what she finds so meaningful about the city after 12 years as a resident and what she recommends if you’re coming to town this month. 

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In times of turmoil, we naturally seek sources of calm. And in Paris, perhaps nothing that recenters Parisians more than the Seine. The city’s most iconic waterway has shaped its mythology long before there were tourist boats and selfie-taking travelers. Today, the significance of the Seine is front and center again, thanks to the Olympics and a billion-euro cleanup project. To talk about this, I’m joined by my friend and fellow journalist Mary Winston Nicklin, who reported National Geographic’s cover story on the Seine earlier this year.

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Did you know that Arabic is the second most spoken language in France? However, the way it is perceived and taught has led many Arabic speakers in France to either abandon the language or not pass it down to their children. It’s this particular experience that the journalist Nabil Wakim sought to investigate in his documentary for France 2, Mauvaise Langue. He joins the show to talk about the project, what has been done, or not done, politically to boost Arabic instruction and France’s relationship with the Arabic language.

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It’s been several months since the President threw us into a mess by calling a snap election and in early September, months overdue, Macron finally named a prime minister. What does his choice mean for the country, and what does it signal to voters who cast their ballots for the left coalition? I speak with Alexander Hurst, a writer and columnist for The Guardian whose recent op-ed looks into what went wrong and what issues the new government inherits. 

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It’s the end of summer holidays, the city is slowly filling up again and that means, novelty is upon us. I associate this time with new restaurant openings, events, and even pop-ups that will carry us to the end of the year. It’s a return to life. One person who is full of life, with plenty of creative ideas to usher in a new season, is Fanny Boucher. She’s the creator of the jewelry brand Bangla Begum and she joins the show to talk about moving to Paris after high school, becoming an entrepreneur, and developing her personal style while living in Jaipur for nearly a decade. 

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In the last episode, you heard me talk to Katy Lee about the snap elections in France. Why they happened, what they mean, and what party was predicted to perform well in the first round. Now, the day before the second round and not only has everything we discussed come to pass, but the stakes are even higher now. Let's go through the results of the first round, what they mean, and why the far right really does present the same danger it always has for democracy in France.

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(This episode was recorded on June 14)

There's a lot to unpack following President Macron’s decision to dissolve the lower house of parliament and call snap elections for the end of June and there is no one better to dive in with me than journalist and podcaster Katy Lee. We discuss the role of these elections, what Macron’s move means for the country, and the political alliances that have formed in record-breaking time. Is there reason to remain hopeful? Have a listen and find out. 

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As much as the Paris food scene has grown increasingly international and casual, fine dining establishments continue to soar. They’ve had to modernize their menus and their approaches to service to stay relevant, but the tasting menu and Michelin-starred experience continues to thrive. However, the way to do that while also opening up the experience to more people who can’t necessarily afford a Michelin meal is by expanding the offering in new ways. Few have done that better than La Tour d’Argent. Find out why and how!

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There’s nothing like leaving Paris for a short time to reset perspectives. I’ve recently returned from 10 days in New York and the Philadelphia region and I was struck by how worn and behind both destinations felt. Part of that is lingering socio-economic impact of the pandemic, and part of it may be insufficient funds devoted to much-needed improvements to public services and transportation. It only served to amplify how good we have it in Paris where major infrastructural investment and urban rehabilitation policies have shaped the city. To talk about this, I'm joined by my friend Brent Longley, an urbanist who moved to Paris a year ago with fervent support for Mayor Hidalgo and her transformative policies. We discuss Paris as a global leader in urban transformation, the opposition that still exists to some of the changes underway, and where the Olympics fits into the equation of a sustainable metropolis. 

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Welcome to the end of 2023! Let's take a look back at the challenging, protest-heavy, crisis-generating year in Paris and beyond, with a few thoughts for 2024. Bonnes fêtes et bonne année! Season 8 will begin in the second half of January.

In the previous episode, you heard from four incredibly smart people invested in both raising awareness and pushing for change when it comes to the fashion industry as a whole. But what practical steps are needed? In this episode, I'm joined again by Aja Barber, Khémäis Ben Lakhdar, and Esha Chhabra to talk about accountability, transparency, decolonization, brands that are doing things right, and slowing down our own consumption as a means to extract ourselves from the performative cycle of fashion.

Guests

(Special two-part episode!) Every season, all eyes are on the Parisian runways as onlookers try to get a peak at what big and disruptive trends await for the following year. But few know about the history of how this industry came to be, the role of colonialism in its development, and how the industry upholds many of the same ideas and practices today. As you will discover, the legacy of colonialism lives on within the fashion industry, and not only in France. You’re going to hear from a fashion historian, environmental journalists, and activists over the course of the next two episodes who will help me unpack the darker side to la mode, why it’s crucial to amend old ways and correct for generations of unethical labor and overproduction, and what the idea of decolonizing fashion really means.

GUESTS